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Chef Robert Rainford’s guide to backyard barbeques

27 July 2010 3 Comments

By Pamella Bailey

ROB RAINFORD CERTAINLY knows his way around a grill. As host of The Food Network Canada’s License to Grill, the Jamaican-born chef has kept the sizzle in backyard barbeques for more than 100 episodes. “Low and slow,” says Rainford over the phone, “at least three to four hours.” He’s referring to the best method of grilling tender, succulent ribs. Apparently it’s all about sustained heat at low temperatures.

A graduate of the culinary program at George Brown College, Rainford admits he fell into grilling haphazardly. “It wasn’t something I set out to do. I didn’t own a barbeque before I did the show,” he jokes, “I worked on a grill for 10 years indoors and applied the same skills to it outdoors.”

With his classical training in fine dining, Rainford has honed his skills in some of Toronto’s best kitchens, including Kensington Kitchen and Senses; skills that have influenced his approach to cooking, be it at the grill or in a fine dining establishment. “You need to be organized and sequenced when it comes to cooking, so it all comes together at the end. That’s how a chef cooks,” says Rainford. That’s a message he teaches in Food Theory classes at George Brown College’s Continuing Education program, and one he’s about to teach now in his guide to grilling the perfect ribs.

First, the marinade. “Marinating overnight will infuse flavour and tenderize the meat,” says Rainford. “I love working with booze. This is where my Caribbean side comes out. Add cinnamon sticks and onions to dark rum for a great marinade.” Rainford advises grilling on low indirect heat for two-and-a-half to three hours for pork ribs and three to four hours for beef ribs. Use wood chips such as apple, cherry, oak or hickory to infuse flavour. Two parts wet (soak for two hours until the wood chips become waterlogged), and one part dry. “It’s the smoking of the woodchips that gives off great flavour.”

Part of throwing a great barbeque is leaving time to enjoy it. “Most people want to barbeque everything when their guests arrive so food is hot off the grill,” says Rainford. “But people don’t care about piping hot food so do what you can ahead of time and heat things up as your guests arrive.”

A father of three, Rainford enjoys cooking at home, a place where his family has a healthy respect for the grill. He credits his older brother, Harold, and twin brother, Richard, (who can’t boil water to save his life), with supporting him through tough career decisions that have landed him where he is today.

Always striving for the next level, Rainford won’t claim to be a master of the grill. “Any good chef will tell you they are continuously on the road to mastering their craft. I’m a voracious reader of cookbooks, and food and wine articles,” says Rainford. His favourite dish? “I love my beef tenderloin and lobster with citrusy butter and garlic. You just know you’re having a slice of heaven.”

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