Stephanie Joseph

By Stephanie Joseph

Unfortunately, the majority of commercial hair care products today use harmful, potentially carcinogenic ingredients. When shopping for products for your hair, I strongly encourage you to seek out organic and/or herbal products and always read the ingredients listed.

Admittedly, products that claim to be natural or herbal are everywhere and on the rise. After a lengthy list of chemicals, near the bottom, you may find something like coconut oil or vitamin E; and this product is calling itself natural hair care. The following are products to avoid:

Sodium Lauryl Sufate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES): Both sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium laureth sulphate are used as detergents and surfactants. Sodium lauryl sulfate found in our soaps is exactly the same as you would find in a car wash or even a garage, where it is used to degrease car engines. This ingredient is used in over 90% of products; they are used because they cause a lot of foam. SLS breaks down the skin’s moisture barrier, easily penetrates the skin and allows other chemicals to easily penetrate.

Parabens: These preservatives have been around since the 1920s, and they are widely used  in the cosmetic industry to prevent microbial growth and extend a product’s shelf life.  If you look on the back of your shampoo or conditioner bottle, you might have seen words like methyl paraben, propyl paraben or ethyl paraben. If you are prone to sensitive skin, parabens can cause allergic reactions and skin rashes. A lot of skin care products claim to be safe for sensitive skin, however, they contain parabens. Even in small amounts, the use of parabens over a long period of time can cause serious skin problems.

Petroleum: Petrolatum is mineral oil jelly (i.e. petroleum jelly). The majority of products geared at black women contain mineral oil and petrolatum because they are cheap to sell and make your hair shine. These ingredients have proven to be damaging over time because they are used as barriers to lock moisture in the skin by coating it like plastic, clogging the pores and creating a build up of toxins. Truthfully, this stuff belongs in your car engine, not on your hair.

Isopropyl Alcohol: aka, rubbing alcohol. This ingredient is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). It has been known to dry and break African hair. It is found in color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances and many other cosmetics, and anti-freeze.

Ingredients lists can be very long.  Learning how to read your labels and look for the good stuff can help you avoid the awful “contaminants” that turn some products into dust collectors. Remember that the first five ingredients listed are what make up most of the product. You can also check the safety of ingredients of many different hair care products on the skin deep database, visit www.ewg.org/skindeep.

Stephanie Joseph is Founder and Producer of the annual Toronto Natural Hair & Beauty Show. Check out the site www.torontonaturals.ca.

Stephanie Joseph

By Stephanie Joseph

1. Natural hair is strong

This is a very big misconception. Natural hair may look very strong, which is why so many females unintentionally abuse their hair with rough treatment.  The truth is, black hair is fragile and needs to be handled with care so it can thrive.

Tip: Using wide tooth combs/ Ouidad Double Detangler, soft bristle brush, water, natural ingredients, like: Coconut oil, Jojoba Oil, Almond Oil, and even your own fingers are some of the best tools and products that are essential to maintaining your natural hair.

2. You can’t do anything with natural hair

Many people think that Afro, Locs, or Braids are the only hairstyles for those who wear their hair natural. The truth is, there are many amazing styles to try including: Bantu knots, Two-strand twists, Puffs, Flat twists, Locs, Natural pinup, Twist outs. Natural hair styles are endless.

Tip: Search online for natural hair styles.

3. Wearing your hair natural is unmanageable

The truth is natural hair is very manageable. Hats off to the media and relaxer manufacturers who have done a great job of making us believe that our natural hair is difficult to manage and needs a miracle to maintain. It isn’t that natural hair isn’t manageable; it’s that people refuse to learn how to manage natural hair. Once you’ve learned and mastered the basic grooming techniques and have found products that your hair likes, combing and taking care of your natural hair will come easy.

4. Natural hair is a political statement

Natural hair is for everyone. Admittedly, in the ’60s the Afro was once a symbol for political change, but today, being natural is nothing more than a hairstyle. Women are getting tired of a 4-6 week routine touch-up, damage from relaxers, and even avoiding water.  They have decided to go natural. At the end of the day natural hair looks great on women wearing their dashikis as it does on women in a business suit.

5. Natural hair is unprofessional

Women with natural hair work in many professions: from teachers to lawyers, from news broadcasters to professional sports team owner. Ursula M. Burns is chairman and chief executive officer of Xerox Corporation, and she is also natural. As long as your hair is tidy, it’s professional. People need to step away from the mentality that straight hair equals neat and professional. Just because a person has given up the relaxer and is now totally natural doesn’t mean she also gives up on styling and taking care of her hair.  What’s important to remember is that there is no correlation between the hair and actual performance on the job.

Stephanie Joseph is Founder and Producer of the annual Toronto Natural Hair & Beauty Show. Check out the  site www.torontonaturals.ca

madamenoire.com

By Karen Welcome

The sun’s out and the sandals are on and that can only mean one thing: pedicure season is here! Before you go out to your favourite nail salon you should be aware of some of the dangers of unsanitary establishments.

Before getting to the salon try to avoid shaving your legs and check for any nicks or cuts that may be on your legs or feet. Bacteria (such as the antibiotic-resistant MRSA) that may build up in a pedicure unit can make its way into your system through any cuts or lesions that you might have.

When you get there, be weary of any units you need to be removed from due to clogging. That clogging is due to the build up of dead skin from procedures of foot soaking and massaging, as well as skin scraping and nail clipping.

Try and do your best to pay attention to what is going on between customers. Standard procedures include cleaning and disinfecting pedicure tubs as well as keeping that disinfectant on for at least ten minutes before the next customer.

Disinfecting a tub well means there won’t be any chance for customers developing fungus or yeast infection which means that your nail technician should not just be scrubbing it out with water. Also keep an eye out to make sure the tools used are throughly cleaned and disinfected as well. The last thing you need to catch whatever the customer before you may pass on including bacterial infections such as E Coli, which is common in feces.

Some of the best advice I’ve received is to learn how to do your own pedicure. That way you save money and can be sure that the place your pedicure is getting done meets your standards of cleanliness. If you can’t resist a great pedicure by a nail technician opt for salons that use single tubs that are removable and easy to clean and disinfect.

Putting your feet in a plain bowl of water may sound unappealing but pedicure units with whirlpools, bubbles, and plumbing are breeding grounds for bacteria that may spread if the units are not cleaned and disinfected properly.

Lastly, don’t be afraid to ask questions about how the establishment and the units are cleaned and disinfected between customers. The answers to your questions may make a difference between you being safe and sorry.

By Stephanie Joseph

Afro, Twists, Bantu Knots and Locs are just a few of the styles many black women have taken on in the past couple years.  Lately, natural hair seems to have increased in popularity. More and more black women are choosing to embrace their natural hair, by that, meaning, no longer having their hair chemically processed by products meant to alter its natural state.

In today’s society, natural hair is not always looked at as beautiful, but women are changing that mind set. Many black women experience frustrations with their natural hair because, for as long as they can remember, they have always had a relaxer, or a Jheri Curl, and don’t know what to do with it after it’s cut, or transitioned to natural.

Contrary to popular belief, wearing your hair natural is not difficult to manage. Admittedly, caring for natural hair has become easier with the numerous hair products available to consumers. In the last five years, blogs, websites, natural hair shows, YouTube tutorials and even online groups/communities have increased dramatically, creating a deeper understanding of how to treat, style and keep natural textures healthy, and black women are now doing the big “CHOP” and wearing their hair natural.

The versatility of natural hair allows for a wide range of looks, from shaven crowns to flowing dreadlocks, two-strand twists to afros, braid to faux hawks, these natural hairstyles brings out  individual beauty, personality, and creative styles to suit every one`s taste. Celebrities like Goapele, Ledisi, Janelle Monae, Salonge Knowles, Chrisette Michelle, Leela James, and, Natalie Stewart of the music group Floetry, who wear natural hair are setting the stage for trendy looks. Having access to the right products and accessories is critical in attaining the latest styles that you desire.

With natural hairstyles becoming so popular, in 2011 we will see many women sporting the low cut afro. It is one of the best hairstyles that look very natural and keeps you looking trendy.  The afro is very easy to achieve and you can do it yourself without the help of a hairdresser.

Braids, a classic style that goes way back, as far as 500 B.C. but is still current because of the many ways they can be worn.  Braids provide timeless elegance as well as unique, interesting designs to simple styles.

The Fro Hawk, considered an extreme style, is a trend preferred by both women and men. There are a few variations to this style, i.e, Braided Mohawk, Knotted Mohawk, Curly Braided Mohawk. A well attained fro hawk can make a person to look fabulous, and very fashionable.

Whether you choose to wear locs, or an afro, one thing is sure; the options for natural hair styling is endless. Just a quick tip, if you decide to go natural this year, choosing an easy to maintain is the best way to incorporate the latest hair trends into your current style, ands personality.

Stephanie Joseph is Founder and Producer of the annual Toronto Natural Hair & Beauty Show.

By Karen Welcome

The world is still reeling from the news of plus-size model Mia Amber’s passing at the young age of 36. She is said to have passed from complications of a knee operation and she is survived by her husband and mother. The international model was best known as a television producer, actress, motivational speaker, and plus size advocate who made a positive impact on the fashion and entertainment industries.

Mia’s beginnings start as an intern-turned-production assistant for shows such as The Ricki Lake Show, and Def Comedy Jam as well as many others. Her efforts earned her a position as a producer on The Ricki Lake Show and from there she went on to produce a myriad of other pilots and television productions.

Mia was a producer for the long-running courtroom show Divorce Court and while producing she jumped at the opportunity to act as Rhonda in the movie Road Trip. Riding on the waves of Road Trip‘s success it was Mia’s first magazine cover of Belle that led her to realize that she wanted to become a full-time model. After conducting research and a 90 pound weight loss, Mia was signed on to be Ashley Stewart’s Great Woman of Style.

Highlights of Mia’s modelling career include campaigns for Queen Latifah’s Curvation, Richard Metzger, Monif C., Lane Bryant and most recently Kimora Lee Simmons’ skin care line Shinto just to name a few. A career as a plus-size model meant confronting challenges from the fashion industry and most notably going against intimidating figures Meme Roth and Janice Dickinson in debates about size acceptance. Mia carried on with her goals and travelled internationally to offer advice to aspiring models around the globe.

Plus Model Magazine appointed Mia as Creative Editor-at Large in 2008 and she put on a new hat as a style consultant in 2009 offering her services to aspiring plus-size models looking to make their mark. Through all her successes and with all her different hats, Mia remained a producer for Divorce Court and soon began blogging to keep up with her growing fan base at www.miaamber.wordpress.com

The organizers of Full Figured Fashion Week were looking forward to presenting Mia with the 2011 Model of the Year award and Plus Model Magazine, devastated by the news of her untimely death, have decided to have Mia as their June 2011 cover girl.

By Karen Welcome

It all begins with a look in the mirror or gazing at recent photos, your hair is thinning, your scalp is more apparent or there are patches of baldness existing. Or, when you realize that the hairs floating around your home cannot be chalked up to normal shedding.

What’s alarming is that problems of hair loss are all too common with Black women and sometimes the root of the problem isn’t always hereditary. Often we damage our tresses by doing things such as pulling our hair too tight for a more polished look or straighten and curl chemically processed hair. Often, by causing irreversible trauma, our styling techniques may be stripping us of the beauty we work to attain.

Here are some common hair loss conditions to avoid:

Traction alopecia occurs from the tight pulling of ponytails, weaves, glues, hair rollers, cornrows, and braids and is the cause of thinning and baldness around the hairline and may cause scarring alopecia if maltreatment continues.

Traumatic alopecia comes with the use of chemical products that create changes in hair texture. It also occurs after straightening or curling hair with excessive heat and oil, scalp burns and relaxing ends that have been previously treated with relaxer.

Centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (also known as hot comb alopecia) is an affect of damaged hair follicles as scar tissue is formed on an area of the scalp and hair loss spreads throughout the entire scalp.

Thankfully these are conditions that can, more often than not, be treated before they have permanent effects. The key is consulting a dermatologist to determine the possible conditions and treatments of your hair loss while it’s early. What’s also important is discussing hairstyles that manipulate the hair less with your stylist. Many people have the misconception that coarse hair textures can withstand certain styling techniques but often you’ll find your hair is much too delicate . Your hair will also recover with a healthy diet and exercise, keeping your tresses moisturized and conditioned, and limiting your use of heating and chemical products.

Whenever I mention the word “foundation” to some of my girlfriends I’m usually greeted with a response such as “ewww” or “no way”. Nine times out of ten those are my galpals blessed with the gift of flawless skin. For the rest of us that aren’t so lucky, foundation is an important investment in our makeup collection, which makes finding the right shade even more crucial.

Foundation has come a long way since its early days as your mother’s thick, matte cream and there are many affordable options on the market. It is important to remember that besides concealing blemishes; foundations should give the skin the appearance of health, youth, and flawlessness.

Choosing the wrong foundation is one of the most common mistakes that black women make, as there are fewer products available to us. Here is a guide on the several types of foundations and how to pick and test your shade before purchase.

So Many Options

Today there is an impressive array of foundation types available in retail. There are tinted moisturizers, mousse or whipped, liquid, cream to powder and mineral. Tinted moisturizers are great for those of us that don’t require a great deal of coverage and just want to achieve the appearance of an even skin tone while relieving dry skin.

Mousse or whipped foundation has similar properties of a tinted moisturizer, in that very light and smooth when applied. It can also be purchased in a spray or aerosol form.  Liquid foundation is stocked in most drugstores and is preferred as it is very easy to apply, and great for around the eyes where most women require more coverage. Cream to powder foundations live up to their name in that they are applied as a liquid but dry to a powder finish. They are great for all day wear as they are long lasting and oil minimizing. Finally mineral makeup, which seems to be all the rage over the past few years is very popular due to the fact that the minerals used are all inert, making it perfect for people with acne prone skin, sensitive skin or allergies. With mineral makeup you can be sure that your makeup will not attract bacteria, either from your brush or the elements.

Picking the Right Foundation

For some, finding the right shade of foundation can be a tough task. This makes testers and the aid of a good cosmetician very important. Wherever you choose to buy your makeup, it is essential that the retailer has a liberal return policy. Before I discovered what brand and shade of foundation worked best for me, I definitely made a few trips back to the drugmart.

For some black women foundation is not only used as a tool to make our skin look as natural and youthful as possible. We also rely on it to camouflage brown spots if we suffer from uneven skin tone. Determining your skin type, and its special needs if any, is vital to choosing the right foundation. Skin types can fall into various categories; ranging from normal, oily, and dry, to combination, sensitive and finally uneven skin tone. A good cosmetician should be able to define which foundation works best for your skin type and how much coverage you’ll require.

Remember that the foundation should match the colour of your face and it shouldn’t be too dark or too light. Women of colour experts have stated that we should always go for foundations with yellow or red bases, as it’s suggested that these colours are the natural undertones found in our skin and will undoubtedly produce a more natural look for us. Finally, testing is a must when choosing a foundation. Narrow down your top 3 shades, applying the tester colours to the jaw line, if you can barely see any foundation Voila! You have chosen the right colour.

Shazam! Here is glowing proof that even the smallest touch of an in-your-face colour has impact, without overwhelming. Start by tracing the upper lash line with pencil liner, like Urban Decay 24/7 Glide On Eye Pencil in Electric, $18.

Then, soften the lines with eye shadow, like Covergirl Eye Enhancers in Turquoise Tempest, $5. You’ll gain extra points for winging the shade slightly past the outer corner of your eye. But, this look still rocks even if you just stick to the lid.

GOING GREEN
Shake up a smoky eye by dabbling in a different palette. Line upper lash lines and highlight the centre of lids with a shimmering emerald green, like Sephora Collection Colorful Mono Eyeshadow in Picnic in the Park, $12. Then, brighten inner eye corners with lemon-tinged gold,
like Sephora Colorful Mono Eyeshadow in French Riviera Gold, $12.

More shades to love:
Joe Fresh Eye Shadow Trio in Forest, $6, takes the guesswork out of coordinating colours. Use the shimmering sky blue and deep green to brighten, and the grey to lightly define eyes.
A creamy formula in a handy stick makes mastering a smoky eye simple. With Covergirl Smoky ShadowBlast in Citrus Flare, $9, you simply swipe and blend.

The question is: How will you wear them — deliciously glossy or delicately matte?

More shades to love:
Clinique Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm in Whoppin’ Watermelon, $19, is the perfect rose pink hue and a just-right blend of colour, moisture and sheen.

Joe Fresh Lip Stain in Tangerine, $6, is a vibrant colour that lasts. Plus, the felt tip pen makes defining lips easy.

For a citrus smile with polish, layer a light dab of clear gloss over a longwearing lipstick, like Clarins Rouge Prodige in #118 Clementine, $26.

On the other hand, a subtle matte finish can soften any bold shade. Choose a creamy lipstick formula with intense pigment, like Covergirl Lip Perfection in Spellbound, $11 (opposite page). Apply a few layers, blotting lightly with a tissue in between applications, to achieve staying power and a refined finish.

By Isake Tom

Every year the fashion and beauty industries tend to dictate the trends for each coming season. For spring 2011 sources have stated that fuller and bolder eyebrows are now all the rage.

In my opinion full, well shaped eyebrows are always “in” no matter the season, as there’s nothing more attractive on a woman than a well shaped and groomed eyebrow.

Eyebrows complete your overall look and can do wonders for the enhancement of your natural features. As a result, one should never neglect the grooming and upkeep of eyebrows during their daily beauty/makeup routines.

Why Big Brows

Many beauty experts would agree that the quickest and cheapest way to achieve a more sophisticated and youthful appearance, is through the maintenance of full, well shaped eyebrows. So giving the tweezers a break is a natural way to turn back the clock, without breaking the bank.

Achieving the perfect brow

We’ve all read those handy tips on how to achieve the perfect eyebrow; i.e. “keep the inner edge of your brow lined up with the edge of your nostril, or the arch of your brow should line up with the outer rim of your iris (the circle on your eyeball).”

These are all helpful tips if you’re well skilled in the use of a tweezer; however for the rest of us I highly suggest building a relationship with a professional beautician who can perfectly shape your eyebrows, ultimately enhancing your God given features. Call me crazy but I also suggest bringing photos of your fave celeb brows to show your esthetician exactly the look you’re aiming for.

After an initial visit to a professional, you can then maintain your eyebrows at home either through waxing or tweezing. Prices for professional brow shaping can range from $6 to upwards of $20+ at some exclusive beauty parlours.

All Tweezed Out?

Not to worry. There are several solutions for over plucked eyebrows. Brow pens are still a quick and easy way to fill in sparse brows, and many brands such as MAC have excellent brow pencils that are great for beginners. Brow Powder if used correctly can be one of the best remedies as a little bit goes a long way and it works to add definition and volume to barely there brows. Believe it or not Brow Mousse is a secret weapon amongst makeup artists, and it works wonders for over plucked brows. The formula is light and creamy and helps you achieve natural looking fuller eyebrows. Last but not least simply hiding your tweezers for a longer period while growing out your eyebrows is always the best and most economical solution.